Stage 8: Baden Baden to Heidelberg

More route navigation challenges, we take the advice of our B&B host and take quiet regional roads that will lead us to the French side of the Rhein. It starts to rain so we decide to take cover in a bus shelter in Seltz. Seems to be a popular one as we are joined by a couple of young girls who stop in to have a cigarette. After snacking on a sandwich we decide to continue regardless of the weather. We eventually cross back into Germany and onto the other side of the Rhein and, back to dealing with the many restrictions on cyclists. Yet again we arrive late this time around 10:30pm into Heidelberg . Happy to finally remove soaking wet clothing! got in 145km and most of it in soaking wet clothing feeling very soggy.
AM has a friend living there who generously offered to take us in. What an amazing welcome, she had prepared a pasta dinner and had beer and wine and cheese laid out for us … what a treat!
Still no sign of Petra, send her an email using our host’s connection. Hopefully she is checking ...

Stage 7: Basel to Baden Baden

As we leave the hostel to start our next stage Petra decides she would rather take the train. Given it is a beautiful day, and I am interested in recording (via time lapsed photography) the transitions between urban and rural contexts I am dead set on cycling, AM is up for it. So we part ways agreeing to meet at the hotel in BADEN BADEN.
Upon entering Germany our proposed route is put in jeopardy. The Germans a very strict as to where cyclists can venture and if there is a bike route cyclists are banned from the small highways between towns. Within a half hour of cycling in Germany we are kicked off the route and forced to take bike paths that end up meandering between farmland and industrial lands. We feel like we are going in circles as there is little to no signage. Time to stop and devise a new route focusing on small “yellow” roads, on Michelin maps.
In to the Black Forest we go, beautiful hilly landscape. The roads are quiet as they weave up and down with tight turns. Great for cycling. End up on a 400 metre pass, Beiderbach. A well known training area for local cyclists. We arrive in Baden Baden late but feeling good with our accomplishment, ended up cycling a total of 185km.
Petra is no where to be seen. We wait until noon the next morning before heading to Heidelberg. Slightly worried but hoping to see her at the next destination.

Stage 6: Winterthur to Art 38 Basel

After a late night dealing with digitizing video footage and preparing my blogs, didn't get much sleep before our 6 am start time for stage 6 to Basel. Looking forward to attending the Basel Art Fair and after 123km feeling re-energized and ready for art. Unfortunately get in later than expected and only see a portion of it.

Did however get a chance to see an intriguing exhibition at the Scjhweizerisches ArchitekturMuseum, Instant Urbanism: Tracing the theories of the Situationists in Contemporary Architecture and Urbanism. Definitely a must see.
Tour of Art 38 Basel

Stage 5: Chur to Winterthur

After staying at a not so great hotel in Chur we start out on a foggy day for Winterthur. The sun comes out by noon and we decide to picnic along lake Walensee, beautiful view near Tiefenwinkel. By day's end we have accomplished 154km. AM is still with us. we have dinner in a restaurant in Wildberg that prominently features an entrée with Canadian horse meat in its menu! We decided to go with a local traditional dish instead.

Stage 4: Chiavenna to Chur

An acquaintance of Petra’s joins us in Chiavenna, intent to cycle with us all the way to Kassel. As we say good-bye to our hosts at La Specola they offer us a gift, a locally crafted handmade wooden bowl. As it turns out we are the first Canadians to stay at their B&B. How incredibly thoughtful!

The three of us start out that morning with beautiful weather. This is the day we cycle up to the Passo dello Spluga a 2,113 metre high mountain pass. Near the top we stop in Montespluga at an inn and have a warm bowl of bean soup. Yummy and satisfying having spent that last half hour in rain and fog. Warmed up we head back out in the fog toward the peak of the pass and where we cross into Switzerland.

The weather eventually cleared and we had a beautiful ride in Switzerland into Chur. Accomplished 110km.

Stage 3: Palazzolo’Oglio to Chiavenna

albergo villa & roma

It’s a beautiful warm and sunny Sunday. We run into several cycling teams on training rides along Lake Como – they most likely originating out of Milan. The lake is such a special sight – certainly beats Holland Marsh near Toronto as cycling backdrop. We stop at an ice cream stand in Cremia and take in the view. Run into a rain storm going north of the lake, along with a bunch of Swiss day tourist leaving the beaches. Traffic became heavy and a bit chaotic but it clears up – along with the rain – in about half an hour. We veer off the main route to Switzerland and on to an old quiet highway toward Chiavenna. Ended up cycling 163km (projected 141 km)

en route through Samolaco
Once in Chiavenna we locate our B&B La Specola, very comfortable accommodations situated in the heart of this picturesque town. We were warmly greeted by our hosts Signora Rina and her son with tea and cookies. We spent some time talking of our travels and her son was very helpful in providing advice on the route we were to take the following day. We highly recommend staying at La Specola if you ever visit.

View of city & view from bedroom window